We woke to an overcast, windy, rainy day- not the sort of outlook to thrill any sort of cyclist. But as often happens once we were out amongst it, it was pretty good riding weather. From Freiburg to Breisach was about 22km, a good stop for morning tea at a konditeroi.
We were lucky again, just as our coffee arrived a short but heavy shower hit. Our bikes didn't even get wet as they were parked under a very thickly thatched little tree. Breisach is a great old town with a cathedral on one hill and a fortress opposite on another, both affording a great view of the Rhein.
From Breisach we crossed the Rhine into France, riding into our fifth country. We traveled through a succession of small villages, green and greener fields and a decent amount of forest, which also protected us when the next shower swept over just before we reached Colmar, the start of the route du vin.
We had phoned ahead to book a room for two nights at Bed and Breakfast Chez Leslie, run by a friendly and helpful American woman. Our room is a big airy room, painted in pastel pinky salmon, with floaty white curtains and linen. It is known as the Shoe Room, with embroidered cushions, artwork and a quaint cabinet containing many miniature shoes and shoe paraphernalia - we're definitely in France now!
Having done about 49km for the day into a headwind/crosswind, we were ready for a nice dinner. We strolled into Petite Venice - as they call the centre of Colmar - and with recommendations from our hosts had dinner at Le Soi, a tiny Alsacion restaurant where we enjoyed some of the local dishes and wine. (Tarte flambe made from a Alsacion Munster cheese and onions, porc marine, Ile flottante and Tarte tatin)The centre of Colmar retains it's mediaeval character with great authenticity, an outstanding town.
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